Haut Dinner Planned

Looking ahead to Valentine’s Day, I have been thinking about delving into some wines that my Uncle Doug gave us on our wedding day ten years ago this June. Doug, a fairly serious Bordeaux collector, gifted us a full case of wines (two each of six bottles), and the following four varieties are still “cellaring” in, well, my cellar (i.e. the basement.)

Chateau Haut-Brion, Pessac Leognan, 1993; Cru Classe des Graves; Premier Grand Cru Classe en 1855;

Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint Julien, 1995; Cru Classe en 1855;

Chateau Lagrange, Saint Julien, 1995;

Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint Julien, 1994; Grand Cru Classe de Medoc en 1855;

They may not look very organized in the picture, but that’s because when we moved into this house 6 ½ years ago, that’s where they ended up, on their sides in that antique wrought iron bin. We are reluctant to move them.

I would like to plan a dinner around one of them, but which? And, of course, what should I make?

Now, the Wine Spectator pages I have from the respective years indicate that all would be fine to consume this year, 2009. The ranges are listed “2001-2020” for the Haut-Brion, 2004-2025 for the Leoville Barton, and the like. Each description gives tasting notes as well, although for a 1996 printing, I’m not sure what the wines would really be like right now. I’m sure all the black currant of the LaGrange will come through a dozen years after publication.

What has helped me most? A site I just discovered upon unearthing my prize wines: Cellartracker.com. I didn’t know it existed before now, and am so happy to have found it. I wholeheartedly encourage a visit. Containing reviews from around the world for various (HUGELY varied) wines, vintage years and years each was consumed, I found it not just expansive, but fascinating. Someone who drank my 1993 Haut Brion last year recommended more cellaring time, although the wine was still “stellar.” All of the above wines in their respective vintage years were listed with many, many comments – it was great to read through. I think I’m zeroing in on the 1995 Lagrange as of now, but I’ll let you know in the end what we decant.

As for the food to be served? Let the games begin!

I already have some baby loin lamb chops in my freezer, but am thinking about preparing duck. I haven’t roasted a duck in a while, and ooh, we love it. One of my favorite preparations is with a Montmorency cherry gastrique, although perhaps the acid may be too much for the wine. I know the cherries would be divine with it, perhaps even a gentler fruit preparation. Another way to go would be with my sherry and shallot sauce made from pan drippings, topped off with a spritz of good sherry vinegar. Oh, there we go with the acid again. I just find that that sort of accompaniment helps temper the richness of the duck. Duck hasn’t been on sale lately that I’ve seen, so I don’t have one stashed away. Then again, I’m about to open what could be a $300 bottle of wine – why am I thinking about coupons??!

As far as the lamb goes, I may just keep the loin chops in the freezer for another time and do a small Frenched rack roasted rare. And what I should do is consider a trip down to the D’Artagnan distribution center in Newark, not that far from me, and pick up some really choice ingredients straight from the source. Now I’m thinking foie gras over toasts topped with a Montmorency cherry preparation as an appetizer to utilize duck, serve the lamb … the possibilities now seem endless.

A trip to Newark (odd as that may sound) is looking better and better to me. Plus, I could hit the Ironbound for some fresh anchovies to make boquerones. But that’s another blog entry altogether.